Skin-Care Benefits, Side Effects, Uses, and More

You can safely use arbutin in concentrations up to 2 percent for face creams and at 0.5 percent in body lotions, Chiu notes, adding that the ingredient is “safer and less aggressive compared to hydroquinone.” (While hydroquinone in concentrations above 1 percent has been banned in cosmetic products in the EU, Japan, Australia, and several countries in Africa, arbutin is safe in the above concentrations because the hydroquinone is released slowly and the skin is not exposed to too much of it at any one time, she explains.)

You may choose to use more than one brightening ingredient in your routine. Prather suggests pairing arbutin with retinol to enhance skin cell turnover and improve absorption of the product. The good news is that arbutin plays well with other ingredients, says Chiu: “There are no known interactions between it and other skin-care ingredients.”

When using arbutin, she recommends applying it to your whole face once or twice a day or using it as a spot treatment to target specific areas.

You also need to be wary of sun exposure, because that can cause hyperpigmentation in the first place. Every day, “use a good mineral-based SPF 50 sunscreen to protect your skin from the hyperactivity of the melanin pathway,” Prather says. “If you can’t do sunscreen, it’s not worth spending money on skin-brightening products.”

Use arbutin for two to three months before assessing results, says Prather. Talk to a board-certified dermatologist for help creating the best routine incorporating complementary ingredients for your skin concerns.